Cornwall Weekend Journals: Autumn

Recently I have really enjoyed the experience of taking the train down to Cornwall - the overnight sleeper train is a great option if you are travelling from London (running from Paddington to Penzance). Last Autumn I took my whole family to stay at the beautiful ARC house just outside Padstow and we had a great time going for long walks, relaxing with board games in the house and attempting to make artisan homemade pizzas with the ARC wood fired pizza oven! 

We love The Sandy Duck on the outskirts of Falmouth, it’s the perfect boutique bolthole for a minibreak. Owner Freyja has transformed an Edwardian townhouse into a stylish and relaxing B&B. Many of the eight bedrooms offer sea views and freestanding bathtubs and downstairs in the airy dining room Freyja serves a delicious breakfast. 

The Cornish Place is next on my list to visit, an exclusive group of four cottages sleeping up to 16 people. The cottages are available to rent individually, or as a group. Each property is host to a private hot tub, firepit and barbecue to encourage outdoor living in the Cornish countryside, and all the properties and use 100% green energy. If you are renting a property in Cornwall I highly recommend stocking up on Fee’s Food (homemade freezer food available to buy from her shops in Rock and Port Isaac). 

Autumn is a great time to eat at the Michelin star restaurants of Cornwall… the produce is still at its finest and it’s easier to get a reservation. If you fancy a spectacular blow-out meal opt for Restaurant Nathan Outlaw. The food is beautifully minimalist showcasing the best seafood Cornwall has to offer – particularly memorable is Outlaw’s famously elegant ‘Gurnard with Porthilly Sauce’.  

In Padstow Paul Ainsworth’s flagship restaurant is also worth the price tag – the lunch menu offers many of the signature dishes at a more affordable price tag. For budding home cooks there is an intimate cooking school and a chef’s table for hiring out for special celebrations.  

The Seafood Bar in Falmouth is a tiny taproom and restaurant, serving locally made Verdant Brewing Co beer and super fresh seafood. From the eight taps at the bar there are four core range classics and the other four provide ever-changing seasonal options. I recommend Lightbulb – a very pale ale with a hint of citrus. 

The Leach Pottery is a favourite with regular visitors to Cornwall. This part of the world has produced endless brilliant potters and Leach has been the place where many learnt their trade. The pottery continues to operate as a working studio but you can also visit the exhibition space and shop to get an insight into the work of local and international artists. 

Early risers should visit the Newlyn Fish Market where more than 600 vessels and 100 fishermen land up to 40 different species of fresh fish each day at Newlyn Harbour – including hake, turbot, mackerel and other local specialties. You’ll need to get there at 4/5am to see the action, but it’s worth it if you love seafood. Nearby restaurants Argoe and Mackerel Sky make the most of the beautiful fresh produce, you’ll have a truly memorable meal at either of these eateries, which feels more special after seeing the market in full swing. 

Find more suggestions for exploring the best of Cornwall in Milly’s Weekend Journals Cornwall book, available here or find Milly on Instagram @millykr and @weekendjournals.